Rural Cambodia

Battambang, though the second city of Cambodia, is like a French provincial town with Asian overtones. The neighbourhoods are still rural with houses in the very traditional style.   The temples are almost unvisited – possibly with reason given that the little red sign on the left of the very long staircase to this one […]

How many foreigners can you fit in a Toyota pickup?

Much touted as a charming boat trip through rice paddies and farmland, this would be a 3-4 hour trip in the wet season. But right now it’s dry…   So a pre-dawn pickup in Siem Reap leads to a crammed bus ride for about an hour to the most upriver point where you can board […]

The Churning of the Sea of Milk

You do get to judge the general cost of living in a country based on its currency. $100 just bought me nearly half a million Cambodian riels. When you consider that the smallest note I received was newly printed and worth about 12cents, you do begin to get the picture.   What on earth were these guys […]

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